I ENJOY THIS SWORS NETWORK ALOT. I FIND IT EVEN BETTER THAN THE OTHERS THAT I AM A MEMBER. ONLY THING MISSING IS REVIEWS ON SWORDS. LETS START ONE.

Sir Tre:

Agreed. It's in our "to do" list actually (almost everything is on that list though ;-)).

I am a big fan of SBG...so I'm trying to figure out a way to not duplicate the good work that they're doing. But that said, there's always room for new reviews! Not sure yet whether to integrate it within the forum (i.e create a "Review" category and just post everything under there in free form), or have it be more visible as part of a Wordpress-style blog that we link from the home page. I'm favoring the latter. Thoughts?

Yes, sir. As you probably already know, some suppliers have direct reviews, text only, commented below their products directly. I agree with the "be different" concept. Of course as we fans of yours already know, you have accomplished that so far. It would be great either way. But everyone knows how resourseful the minds of "oz" are. You can do it, and I am sure however you do, it will be different. The differnt types of sword forums and sales sites that I have looked at are anything but on the first two on the list... You and Paul have run a close race, setting the standar the rest could look up to. I mean this is like the facebook of swords, man. Sorry, but I swiped that quote from Paul.

I wonder if that should be our new slogan: "The Facebook for Swords, Extra Pickles, Without the Cheese". ;-)

I humbly accept the compliments. Makes the team happy for all the blood, sweat and tears shed already. What would we have done without our pots of strong dark coffee?! Made plenty of bad decisions...and will make plenty more...but thank god, you guys are here to keep us honest!

Putting reviews under each product seems like a no-brainer really. Maybe reviews could exist in places that makes sense - individually under their respective products to seal a purchasing decision, and aggregated together on one page for its educational aspect. Hmmm...brain working...ok, off to white board we go. Our developers are already frowning at me. It's a good sign.

Hello All..

Who's most experience about Japanese Samurai??

I want to ask about details my Japanese Samurai..

Thanks

While I am more prone to be available for Chinese sword info, I do have a limited Japanese sword knowledge and some resources for more info. Ask away, regarding your sword.

The Paul Chen Agincourt sword;

My initial impression on this sword was founded even before purchasing it. I found some pics online at different sites, and kept wondering, "why can't I see a nut at the end of the pomel?" I had heard of some makers using inset hardware with allen heads and such. finally I found a pic on one site that showed a peened tang at the end of the pomel... I was sold on buying it at that moment. While I am not an avid European style sword fan, Chinese swords are more to my liking, I just had to have this one. I found the specifications to my liking as well. I found a site that sold it for $150.

Overall length:  35 1/4" Blade length:  27 1/4" Handle length:   8" Weight:  2lb 8oz. The weight was not too bad, and I always prefered a shorter sword.

When the sword arrived, I was totally pleased. I had ordered it from a site other than www.swords.com , as I had yet to here of this site. It took about 2 weeks to arrive. I removed the packaging and drew the blade from its sheath. The sheath itself was outstanding, being wooden covered in leather (leather tends to corrupt the steel with its tanning solutions), and finished with steel end fittings. It also had a set of leather straps/metal rings for attatching a baldric. The blade was the main part that I wanted to get a hold on. It had a nice coating of lubricant to protect the metal. One thing the adds didn't tell me is that the hilt and pomel were also carbon steel... wonderful, as one of the bad thoughts that used to go through my head when training was, "what happens if that guard breaks, won't you lose a finger to your oponent's blade?" Both the hilt and the pomel are so stury that they are formidable weapons in their own right. Of course I immediately sprayed some clear coat on the hilt and pomel so I wouldn't have to always polish them.

The balance on this sword is aprox 4" past the guard... not bad. The grip is wood, covered in leather. Now while I was used to swords being a lot sharper, I knew that if I was in battle with someone wearing armor, as this sword is designed to fight against, I wouln't want such a profoundly sharp edge. The edge is beveled though, which is not what I believe to be historical, but with a little stone and alot of "elbow grease" that was changed some. The point, however, is where the Agincourt sword shines the most. I believe that should I be in battle with a man in armor, I would fell comfortable with the knowledge that the right thrusting technique would penetrate to maake the kill. (not that I want to kill some one, but these things should be designed like a real sword if they are selling as such)

I tried a little test, that i do NOT suggest you do at home with your own, by cleaving a landscaping brick in two. This provided a mild chink in the blade at the point of impact, without any other damage. I believe that Paul Souther, who does detructive testing on sword buyers guide, would have been proud. Again, though, I had to get out the stone and elbow grease.

My Agincourt sword has been named Maggie.

I researchd some on the Battle of Agincourt, but did't find ample support for the historic value of this sword, but the peened pomel gives me enough too rate it at a 4/5.

The structural integrity wins hands down at a 5/5.

This sword handles well for its weigh, so I will give it a 5/5.

Fit and finish... actuall it is not greatly polished, which I admire but for what most want I will give it a 4/5.

The value for even a higher price would still be 5/5.

The best thing I can recommend is that you get one from Slasher at www.swords.com if you are interested, as he is selling them for $129.50 at page swords.com/buy/agincourt-sword.html 

Thanks for posting this thorough review, Sir Tre! I look forward to the next...

Excellant review SirTre, five stars!! "CRY HAVOC, and let slip, the dogs of war!". Great sword by Paul Chen, the Agincourt Sword is perfect! I had been looking at that sword and also the Valiant Armoury one aswell,which www.Sword.com carry, both. SirTre, you hit all the points, the photos really show it off! Looking at your photos, I understand the action of "pummeling". Paul Southern is great, and so is SBG. I love his YouTube vids on various swords. I just bought the Valiant Armoury Scottish Sword, I got a real good price, 142.00 at another site, they sold out after I ordered mine. www.Swords.com still have it in stock. I won't get it until next week. Looking at the design, I really fell for it's simplicity!

Cosmicrocker,

Thank you and the other for the compliments on the review. A word on the VA Agincourt, is that I believe that its tang is bolted on at the end of the pommel. That is why I bought the PC. The Great Sword is another fine choice. Also the project that I am working on (check my blog Hydridized Jian) is being made from the Hanwei forge Tinker Pearce Bastard Sword Replacement Blade (non fullered). This is an oustanding blade. The blade is so terrific, that I almost wish that I had purchace the whole sword. The tempering is done so well that when I attempted the stock removal, the hacksaw just grazed the metal and only made a shine and not a cut. So now I will be making a two-handed jian... another fine weapon.

If you are interested, they have it right here in the store.  

http://swords.com/buy/tinker-pearce-bastard-sword.html

Thanks SirTre! It's my pleasure, I call them, as I see them. Actually, I've been thinking about the Tinker Pearce "single-handed" sword. I admire his work trememdously! Interesting concept, building your own sword. I like the idea of being able to replace your blade! I stand in awe, staring at the craftmanship of these swords of high quality, it's a man-made beauty that nears perfection.

I know what you mean, Cosmic. Problem is, it is habit forming. Once you start collecting, you are hooked. I enjoy the artwork of the craftsmanship that went int a sword. I enjoy the feel of the sheer weightlessness of a well balanced blade as I manipulate it in a form.... It is so bad, that my wife calls my collection the mistresses. LOL

I like the fact that the PC Agincourt is 1095 carbon steel. It is probably my favorite metal. So when I was researching the Tinker Pearce blades, I had my reservations about 5160 marquenched steel. I could not see how it could be better. Then I found a metallurgy website, that stated, basically, that the steel will harden on the outside when tempered, but the inside would be more flexible. That is why it is a common steel for tools. Well, this rang a mental bell, realizing that a monosteel sword would now have the properties of a laminate, or insert steel blade. The best part is it apparently is a lot cheaper to make the sword from this steel than the inserts, since the insert steel swords appear way too high for the average budget.

The Tinker Bastard sword blade is light and balanced well for a bare blade. I couldn't believe how it handles, without a handle or guard and pommel. I had to try it out. So I cut up a couple of old cardboard sword boxes tha I still had around. Whoosh!!! Like a laser beam through the boxes. Of course I would not recommend this type of cutting (no handle) to anybody for obvious safety reasons... but, well, let's just say that there is truly no need fro viagra...LOL.

If the other blades designed by Tinker Pearce are anything like this one>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>GET ONE WHILE THEY LAST. And don't forget, or ole buddy Slasher sells some right here in the sword store.  While a couple of the more expensive models are listed on this page
http://swords.com/buy/departments/designer/michael-tinker-pearce  you can see some lesser expensive models here http://swords.com/buy/departments/brands/paul-chen-cas-hanwei/swords?limit=24&p=4 They are clearly marked as Tinker's work. If you don't find the one that you want, message Slasher, and see what he can do for you. The blade that I bought is from this one... http://swords.com/buy/tinker-pearce-bastard-sword.html and if the rest of the sword is the quality of just the blade, you cant go wrong.

You are so right, SirTre! Collecting is an addiction! That's why I have limited myself to only two swords in the next year! One will be a Tinker Pearce sword, the other is still open, but I have been looking over the 1796 saber. Whatever, they are, they will be of high quality. So far, I have only had 1060 swords. Do you really think the 1095 makes that much difference? I ask because, I do not know. Thanks for the info on the 5160 steel, I had some questions on that. I am impressed with your knowledgeable explanation of the "Marquenched" forging process in lay-mans terms. I will take a look at the Swords.net/store, Slasher has always given good advise. I have been checking out Tinker's swords, including the Paul Chen line. The Tinker Pearce "Bastard Sword" is a great sword, I have considered it for sometime.

Okay, here you go...you might call this a rough draft. I have to redo the handle wrap. The leather under the ito slid and caused the ito to bunch in a couple of places. I was tired of messing withit so I just finished it off, and decided to redo later. I though that some of you would like to see how the project was going so I am posting a couple pics now. The first pic is the brass pin in the tang. Had to use 3/16 since 1/4 would be to broad for the tang at that location.The second is the handle with furniture...handle is red oak treated with deck coating for weatherizing. And last but not least is the finished (not) handle. As you can clearly see, I will need to redo it as soon as my knuckles stop cramping. LOL.

I reckon that would be a hand and a half jian.

THE HYBRID JIAN PROJECT


   This project started as a simple idea. I wanted a jian that was unique to me. Then came the hard part, since, even though I could forge one, I didn't have a forge to make the blade. Thus the quest for the perfect blade. I started internet searching for replacement blades. I found a few, but they were Euro style blades. Long swords, bastard swords, and rapiers. I couldn't seem to find one with the right length/ width ratio. I finally found the Tinker Pearce Bastard Sword replacement blade. This one is 33” blade with a 2” base. That was almost what I wanted , but I would prefer 30” length, and 1.75” width at base. The pics of the tang looked solid. I figured I would buy it and perform some stock removal at the base of the blade to get the specs I wanted. They only problem I had at that point was the metallurgy. I was not totally familiar with the 5160 marquenched steel. So as is my habit, I did some more research.

   In my research I found this to be a good steel for tools. The reason being, 5160 is a carbon-chromium spring steel. It exhibits excellent toughness and high ductility, with a high tensile-yield ratio, as per  Metal Suppliers Online: Material Property Data. And if I understand everything else about it correctly, then you can gain flexibility, while retaining edge holding capability, kind of similar to the properties of DH without having to DH. Then there is the marquenching... which is some kind of space age technology for tempering using molten salt. Tinker's website explains a lot about it.

The specs on the sword when properly assembled as the original product are as follows;
Specifications:
Oakeshott Type: XVIIIa
OAL: 42-3/8 inches
Blade Length: 33 inches
Blade Width @ Base: 1-1/2 inches
Blade Width 1 inch from point: 1/2 inch
Blade thickness at base: .240 inches
Blade thickness 2 inches from tip: .135 inches
Distal taper is convex
Hilt OAL: 9-5/16 inches
Pommel Type: H
Guard Type: 1
COG: 3-3/4 inches from base of blade
Blade Node/COP: 20 inches from base of blade
Primary Hilt Node: On handle approx 1 inch from cross
Weight: 2lb10oz.
Price: $329
   When I tried stock removal... it was futile. The best file or hacksaw wouldn't touch it so it remained with the same blade size. I had conferred with Tinker on the Swords Network community via a PM regarding the project before starting, and was cautioned to keep the COG(POB). The different parts would be alright if I removed stock from the blade base, but it was impossible the way this was tempered so well. So another means of weight for balance was in order. I used oak since it was a little heavier, and chose to use ito maki. This came out very well. But when I posted on another forum thread, I had someone mention that it looked out of place on this sword. I like the appearance but had to agree. Later that day I found an instruction guide in PDF format online to show the Chinese equivalent, much like the wrapping on the Cold Steel Jade Lion. So even though I am posting this review now, I will be changing the handle wrap, in the same color, using the Chinese style wrap.

The historical significance of this sword is N/A.
The Fit and Finish is terrific... 4/5 (for now until rewrap)
Due to the  well made blade and adding the tang pin
structural integrity is 5/5
handling will take some getting used to due to the weight being greater than normal for this type of sword. 4/5
the value for the money is terrific. The original sword design would have cost almost $300. But, since I received a great deal on the replacement blade from www.swords.com on a special order, and using parts off of some old swords that I had lying around, I have about $170 tied up in this. So the value for the money would have to be 5/5.
I reckon that would place the rating at a 4.5 if we don't round off the score.

  Any one interested in the original design Tinker Bastard Sword can find a great price on it at http://swords.com/buy/tinker-pearce-bastard-sword.html   at $271.20. If you need to special order just the replacement blade it is SH2402 and you can message Slasher for a price, which I am sure will be fair.

 I am really impressed at SirTre's hybrid jian. It handles well although its a little too big for me. I am inspired to learn more and I will make one of my own too. 

Collecting swords is addictive. I like to call them his mistresses but I really enjoy the collection. I am now down to one sword myself as I gave one to my brother as a gift. I have a Katana but thinking of getting a jian. For those of you who are into the Japanese swords, remember, the jian handles differently and trust me is very effective at cutting.

 THE UNITED BLACK IKAZUCHI

I bought this sword, mainly for its construction. However, the looks were totally great as well. I spent some time looking at different web sites, trying to find out more about it first. Finally, I went to United Cutlery’s site and downloaded a pdf file on it with the hrc rating and blade material info. Still not satisfied that I possessed enough knowledge to go ahead and buy one (broke too many SLO’s trying to work out with them), I contacted United and was informed that the tang was 3/4 tang. So I ordered one from a different, as I haw.swords.com.
I don’t think there is any true historic representation here, except a missing link between Chinese and Japanese swords.
My initial impression was one of “not another cardboard box!!!” but inside was a viagra moment to look upon. I knew the handle was leather wrapped over rayskin, but it was tight, really tight. Almost 6 months later and it still hasn’t loosened. The tribal style designs in the metal fittings a total eye-catcher. I had to cut something. So I cut the box...like a razor.
The blade is 30" and overall length 41.5" (math) the guard aprox 3" dia. POB about 5". No listing on COP. WEIGHT no listing have to weigh it myself, later.
The blade on this sword is very sharp. The hrc is 58. The polish, though not mirror, is well done. One or two blemishes, easily repaired with Never-Dull. The whole sword weight seems almost nonexistent due to balance.. Well not quite but enough to be great. It is a 1045 mono-steel, and mono-temper. For hamon fans that is not good. But I use it like a jian, so it doesn’t bother me. There is a fuller’s grove though, again with positive oon balance. 
The handle is wrapped with black leather over white rayskin. 3/4 tang is what United states, but closer to full tang. Dual bamboo mekugi. Assembly is so tight that it is difficult to disassemble. That might be a negative, but I think it it a positive since it hasn’t loosened after much sparing and cutting... jugs and even up to 1" branches. Oh even through a 8" wide box of dirt.
The tsubas tight and is black colored brass. Nice designs in it... supposed to be “tribal”. The fuchi matches. 
The saya is the only real complaint that I have. Looks outstanding, but since I keep the blade oiled, it slides too easily... cause a major FUBAR. Fell out of sheath while leaning forward to check around the corner for a burglar and cut my ankle. Darned thing so sharp I barely felt it, but cost 7 stitches. Also is a little rattle of sword in sheath.
The greatest part about the Ikazuchi still has to be the balance. It is so responsive to the movements of your wrist that parrying is a breeze. Defeated my wife’s Musashi Bamboo katana many times and even nicked her blade. Switching swords usually changes the odds. Enough to tell that part of skill is how the sword responds. For the price, YES. If the price was more, YES. (But don’t let the sellers know that they might raise the price).

 Xin JIan

I bought this sword because of the comments on another forum. They were so positive. I read swordsage review on his HAN, and saw him on youtube with it. There were more comments from others who stated that Garret has “bang for the buck”!!!
Garrett Chan has to be one of the most honest salesmen I have ever met. He informed me ahead of time of climate issues w/ the glue holding the scabbard fittings on. He could have kept quiet and blamed shipping and handling like some other companies, but I will not mention any four letter companies starting with B and ending in k. 
The package was most impressive. A wooden box w/ hinges and latches covered in a nice red dragon print cloth. Inside was a yellow cloth covering a Styrofoam liner. With shaking hands and baited fainted breath (soulda been a writer), I retrieved my prize. Then the danged scabbard fitting on the end dropped off. Oh well, I had already been “heads-upped” by Garrett. The brass fittings and the brass guard and pommel is gonna need a shine. Production model... probably on the shelf too long. So I quickly drew the sword , hoping the blade wasn’t rusted. Whew, immaculate blade, well preserved w/ light coat of oil. Near razor sharp. More than my best tomato knife. I always like to slash the shipping box, so I tried this one while holding it horizontal away from me. Flawless cut!!!
This sword has a 70 cm blade that is .6cm thick at the guard, and .2 cm at the tip. (Darned Canadians use metric. If my math is correct, the blade is aprox 1/4" at guard and aprox 27" long. Add about 8" for the guard, handle, and pommel. The weight I got in pounds, though, is 1.45 lbs. The center of gravity is about 4" past the guard.
The guard and pommel are made of smooth finished brass... no frills, nor thrills, just hand protection. The handle is a nice hardwood, with 2 pins, one is bamboo, the other a copper tube, surrounded by a brass flower. The tube is handy to add a tassel, though, I don’t want one. The only thing I found wrong w/ handle at this point is that it is made similar to the Cold Steel gim, in that it is full tang right down to the end where a bolt is welded to hold the pommel on. If he welds as good as his production of the rest of the blade, I am not concerned.
The blade is very sharp. Wear gloves to polish. It is rigid enough to satisfy my cutting desires, yet flexible enough to satisfy my style of use. I am so glad that it is not way too flexible, like what everyone calls wushu steel.
The guard and pommel are nice sturdy brass, though being a production model sitting in storage, required a shine.
The scabbard is cosmetically alright, yet need to have the fittings pinned by rolling the edges like my master’s old lion head sword. The glue used isn’t the best. I will have to tighten them up. 
This thing being so light and well balanced handles superb. You can change direction on a dime and get nine cents change. Buy one, try one. For the price, you’ll be happy.
So far I have cut the carton 4 times, a sheet of paper, and some soda bottles. Clean and swift cuts.
Concluding this review of my first, and certainly not my last, purchase from Garrett Chan of Jin-Shi.Garrett has informed me that he is closing out his production line, however, and I believe that is not good. If he continues to grow he might want to get back on it. He has also stated that he is working on the fitting issues w/ the scabbards. I am looking at the tangjian for my next purchase.
The pros of this sword is the sword itself, the weight, sturdy blade and the guard and pommel. The cons are the scabbard fittings. And the brass polish. 
I would recommend this sword to anyone. I have already set my brother up to get one. ‘BANG FOR THE BUCK” should be the title. Oh and Jin-Shi gives customary SBG discount. PICS TO SHOW NEXT POST.

EDIT
Okay... yesterday my tatmai made it here. I have (actually belongs to Lady Elizabeth, my wife.) a musashi bamboo. It only cut 3" mat 1.5" across, this could be rusty form; however this www.jin-shi.com production jian cut 2.75" across. I have always been better at a single handed form, which could attribute to this. I prefer to believe, though, that this jian is simply better at cutting, since the sharpness appears to be equal on the two swords. Also I feel that the cut would have been completely through had I used a stand... we had the mat propped with bricks, a stand would have brought the mat higher to where the cut would have been cleaner.

There was a little problem with blade harmonics at first. After I posted my review on another forum, one of the guys gave me a couple of suggestions. One was to change the balance with a a counter weight in handle. The other was to realize that, though this is made into a jian, it is still a euro blade. He recommended the point-of-percussion to be at aprox 12". When I cut a jug with it after these changes I had no problem at all. Little Jimmy turned out to  be a terrific sword.

I am not going to write any thing here... a picture is worth a thousand words.

just watch the by clicking video . and here is a pic.

i will have a review for you soon as well i just bought a cutless and mithrodin swords from weapons masters will see how it goes illl have pics and all i got the pirate cutless for my promotion at work from second captain to lead captain went through my first solo (w/port captain) coast guard inspection 7 inspectors and we passed with 0- non - nada - giggs (835's) 100% pass coasties were happy with everything from vessel security ( i am the VSO) to vessel training on fire and emergency drills we passed it all that is unheard of for a vessel that was built in 78 lol well enough bragging lol later sir tre

I have one of the Tinker-Pearce longswords and I have to say that you can't get more bang for your buck if you like longswords.  The sword handles beautifully, it's fast and maneuverable, it feels incredibly well put together (no slips, clinks, rattles etc.) and solid.  I've done some flourishes with it and frankly it's less tiring to me than my wooden waster.  Plus, the blade is harmonically balanced, so hard impacts that might otherwise sting the hand or arm are safely absorbed.  Seriously, it is by far the best sword I've ever purchased... beating out some swords that cost 50% more.

Deus, I know what you mean about the Hanwei/ Tinker line. I am amazed at how tough the metal is. I was  truly concerned at first when i googled the type of metal. but the quenching process is outstanding. even the tang is tough. I burned up drill bits trying  to drill the tang for the brass pin. The shock absorbing quality took some getting used to but when i did, it was so comfortable to use... again I use the word... amazed.

I like this Idea. I will soon post review for Atrim Pratical Arming Sword